Quick answer: Smithfield is the big cobbled square on the north side of the Liffey in Dublin 7, with the Luas Red Line stopping right on it. It is the area for whiskey (the Jameson Distillery on Bow Street), trad music (The Cobblestone), arthouse films (the Light House Cinema) and good coffee, and it sits next door to Stoneybatter. Allow half a day, longer if you are staying for a session.
Smithfield is easy to get to and easy to get your bearings in: everything sits around the one square. It is also one of the more practical bases in the city, with hotels on the Luas line and Phoenix Park, Collins Barracks and Stoneybatter all within walking distance.
A short history
In Irish it is Margadh na Feirme, the “farm market”. The square was laid out in the mid-17th century as a market near Oxmantown Green, and until its regeneration the streets around it were still lined with inner-city farmyards. During the redevelopment in the late 1990s, more than 400,000 old cobbles were lifted, cleaned by hand and laid again. The tall gas-lighting masts along the square, 26.5 metres high, went up at the same time, and they are lit in colours for events.
In 1964 the square stood in for Checkpoint Charlie in the film The Spy Who Came in from the Cold. The old horse fair still goes on, though since a 2013 bye-law it is held only twice a year, on the first Sunday of March and of September.
Pubs and bars in Smithfield
The Cobblestone
77 King Street North. A family-run pub that calls itself “a drinking pub with a music problem”, with trad sessions every day. It has been named Pub of the Year at the Irish Restaurant Awards in recent years. There are no TVs. For an evening session, get there around 8.30pm if you want a seat near the musicians. cobblestonepub.ie
Fidelity Bar & Studio
79 Queen Street. An audiophile craft beer bar from the team behind The Big Romance and Whiplash. Sister7, inside Fidelity Studio, serves Asian small plates. fidelitybar.ie
Bonobo
Church Street Upper. Bonobo is part of the Animal Collective group, the same people behind Caribou and Kodiak. It has a big beer garden and wood-fired pizza, which makes it a good bet for a group. Bonobo on Instagram
Frank Ryan’s
5 Queen Street. A dark, old-school pub full of bric-a-brac, with pool, pizza and live blues and rock.
Walsh’s, L. Mulligan Grocer and the other Stoneybatter pubs are a few minutes’ walk away. For more around the city, see our guides to the best trad music pubs in Dublin and the self-guided Dublin craft beer crawl.
Restaurants and cafés
Fish Shop
A seafood counter with a list of more than 100 wines. Check its current details before you go.
Proper Order Coffee Co.
7 Haymarket. Run by Niall Wynn, who has won the Irish barista championship more than once. We’d make it our first coffee stop in Smithfield. properordercoffeeco.com
Urbanity
Coke Lane. Café that roasts its own coffee on site.
Third Space Smithfield
Café in Smithfield. thirdspace.ie
Mad Yolks
The Smithfield café is the brand’s home base. madyolks.com
Oxmantown
Sandwiches, by the old markets. oxmantown.com
Elliot’s and My Meat Wagon
Elliot’s is a bakery on Arran Street West. My Meat Wagon does BBQ.
Our best coffee shops in Dublin guide has more places to try across the city.
Things to do in Smithfield
- Jameson Distillery Bow St. Tours on the original distillery site, with tastings and classes. Read our Jameson Distillery tour guide, compare it in Guinness Storehouse vs Jameson Distillery, or book the Jameson Whiskey Distillery Tour with Tastings.
- The Smithfield chimney. The 1895 distillery chimney has an observation deck at the top, reached by 244 steps since it reopened in 2018. Opening can be intermittent, so ask at the Generator hostel next door.
- Light House Cinema. Arthouse cinema, which reopened in Smithfield in 2008. See our best cinemas in Dublin guide. lighthousecinema.ie
- St Michan’s Church. Known for the mummified remains in its crypt, which you can see on a guided tour.
- National Museum of Ireland, Collins Barracks. Decorative arts and history, a short walk away. Entry is free.
- Events on the square. The square has hosted events such as the Chinese New Year festival.
Getting there
- Luas: the Red Line stops at Smithfield, on the south side of the square.
- Bus: route numbers are changing under BusConnects, so check the TFI Journey Planner for current routes.
- On foot: about 10 minutes from O’Connell Bridge.
Check our live Luas and train times on the day, or see our getting around Dublin guide.
Where to stay
Smithfield is a good base, with the Luas on the doorstep. On Dublin 360 you’ll find the Maldron Hotel Smithfield on Smithfield Square and The Hendrick on Hendrick Street. Light sleepers should ask for a room facing away from the square on event nights. See all our Dublin places to stay.
Local tips
- Use Smithfield as your base and Stoneybatter as your high street. They are a few minutes apart on foot.
- Get to The Cobblestone early if you want to sit near the musicians.
- Do the Jameson tour in the afternoon, then stay on for a session.
- Opening times change, especially for the chimney and the cafés, so check before you go.
Photos via Wikimedia Commons: William Murphy (CC BY-SA 2.0); William Murphy (CC BY-SA 3.0); Metro Centric (CC BY 2.0).
Smithfield FAQs
Where is Smithfield in Dublin?
Smithfield is in Dublin 7, just north of the Liffey. It is roughly bounded by the river, Bow Street, Queen Street and North Brunswick Street, and it is about a 10 minute walk from O’Connell Bridge.
How do I get to Smithfield by Luas?
Take the Luas Red Line to the Smithfield stop, which is on the south side of the square. For buses, check the TFI Journey Planner, as route numbers are changing under BusConnects.
What is Smithfield in Dublin known for?
Its big cobbled square, the Jameson Distillery on Bow Street, trad music at The Cobblestone, the Light House Cinema and the old distillery chimney with its viewing deck. The square was laid out as a market in the mid-17th century.
When is the Smithfield horse fair?
Since a 2013 bye-law, the horse fair is held only twice a year, on the first Sunday of March and the first Sunday of September.
What time should I get to The Cobblestone for trad music?
There are sessions every day. If you want a seat near the musicians in the evening, get there early, around 8.30pm. There are no TVs.
Can you go up the Smithfield chimney?
The 1895 distillery chimney has an observation deck, reached by 244 steps. Opening has been intermittent, so ask at the Generator hostel next door and check before you go.
Is Smithfield near Stoneybatter?
Yes. Stoneybatter is right next door, a few minutes’ walk away, so it is easy to do both in one outing.
