By Dermot Murphy, Dublin Tourism Expert
First Time Visitor Guide!
After twenty years of showing visitors around my beloved Dublin, I’ve learned that first-timers often make the same mistakes, and miss the same magic. So grab a cup of tea (or a pint, no judgment), and let me share what I tell every first-time visitor who steps into Dublin City!
Start with the Hop-On, Hop-Off (No, Really)
I know what you’re thinking: “That’s so touristy!” But here’s the thing, Dublin is compact, yet sprawling enough that you’ll waste half your trip walking in circles without a plan. The hop-on, hop-off bus gives you the lay of the land in your first day. You’ll spot what catches your eye, get oriented, and avoid that deer-in-headlights feeling when someone mentions “the Liffey” or “Temple Bar.”
My tip? Take the full loop first without getting off. Listen to the commentary (yes, even the dad jokes). Then do a second round and actually hop off at the places that intrigued you.
The Temple Bar Truth
Let me save you from tourist trap heartbreak: Temple Bar is beautiful, historic, and ridiculously expensive. A pint that costs €6 everywhere else will run you €8-9 in Temple Bar’s main drag.
But—and this is important—don’t skip it entirely! The cobblestone streets are genuinely lovely, especially in the afternoon before the crowds descend. Pop in for one pint at The Temple Bar pub for the atmosphere and the photos, then head literally one street over to places like The Old Storehouse for the best music/Irish food in Temple bar or The Palace Bar & Whiskey Palace where locals actually drink.
Guinness: You Have Options
Yes, you should visit the Guinness Storehouse. It’s iconic, the views from the Gravity Bar are spectacular, and that first sip of perfectly poured Guinness in the building where it all began? Pure magic.
But here’s what the guidebooks won’t tell you: book your ticket in advance and go first thing in the morning (11am for midday pints) or after 4pm. The midday crowds are mental, you’ll spend more time queuing than sipping.
And if Guinness isn’t your thing? The whiskey distillery tours are equally brilliant. Teeling, Jameson, Pearse Lyons—take your pick. Irish whiskey is having a renaissance, and these places tell incredible stories about Dublin’s distilling history.
Trinity College and the Book of Kells
Every first-timer wants to see the Book of Kells, and you should—it’s a 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript that makes you believe in magic. But the real secret? The Long Room library upstairs is even more spectacular. It’s where they filmed scenes that inspired the Jedi Archives in Star Wars. Just standing there makes you feel like you should be wearing robes and solving ancient mysteries.
Pro tip: Book the early morning time slot before the tour groups arrive. You’ll actually be able to breathe and take photos without someone’s selfie stick in your face.
Don’t Skip the Suburbs
Phoenix Park is massive, bigger than Central Park and Hyde Park combined. Rent a bike, pack a picnic, and go say hello to the wild deer that roam freely. On weekends, you’ll see families having barbecues, kids playing football, and couples strolling like it’s still the 1950s.
And Howth? That’s my favorite day trip recommendation. It’s a 30-minute train ride from the city centre, and suddenly you’re in a charming fishing village with cliff walks that’ll take your breath away (literally—it’s windy up there). Fish and chips at Beshoff Bros afterwards is mandatory but mind the death defying seagulls with your lunch at your peril
The Food Scene Has Seriously Improved
When I started guiding in 2005, Dublin’s food scene was… let’s say “developing.” Now? We’re spoiled for choice.
Skip the “Irish breakfast” at your hotel and get a proper fry-up at Kingfisher Cafe or Brother Hubbard if the fry is not your scene. For lunch, head to the Bambino for a cheeky slike of Pizza. Dinner? Depending on your budget, try The Winding Stair for modern Irish cuisine or grab a bowl of Irish stew at Gallagher’s Boxty House (order the boxty, trust me).
And please, please try a proper Irish coffee. Not the sugary thing you get elsewhere. I’m talking about Jameson, brown sugar, coffee, and cream that sits on top like a cloud. The Irish Whiskey Museum does a brilliant masterclass if you want to learn to make it yourself.
Understanding Dublin Time
Dubliners are friendly, sometimes too friendly. If you ask for directions, be prepared for a story, a joke, and possibly an invitation to someone’s cousin’s pub. That five-minute walk might take twenty minutes once you factor in the chat.
Also, when someone says “it’s just around the corner,” they mean anywhere from 50 meters to 2 kilometers. Our sense of distance is… optimistic.
Weather Wisdom
There’s an old saying: “If you don’t like the weather in Dublin, wait five minutes.” Pack layers. Pack a waterproof jacket. Pack an umbrella. Then forget the umbrella at the hotel because you’ll never remember to bring it when it’s actually sunny in the morning.
The best weather app? Your own eyes. Look out the window. If it’s raining, it’ll probably stop soon. If it’s sunny, enjoy it for the next seven minutes.
Hidden Gems I Always Share
Marsh’s Library: Dublin’s oldest public library. It’s tiny, creaky, and feels like stepping into a Harry Potter novel. Barely any tourists know about it.
The Cobblestone Pub in smithfield along with Walsh’s in Stoneybatter: Real traditional music sessions most nights. No stage, no cover charge—just musicians playing because they love it. This is what people imagine Irish pubs are like.
St. Stephen’s Green at Lunch: Forget the tourist shops on Grafton Street. Grab a sandwich and sit in the park watching office workers on their breaks and students from the nearby art college [also be mindful of seagulls!]. This is real Dublin. If you are feeling like spoiling yourself grab a hot chocolate in Butlers Cafe!
The Chester Beatty Library: Free admission, world-class collection of manuscripts, prints, and rare books. Hidden just begind dublin castle
The Day Trip Dilemma
You’ll hear about the Cliffs of Moher, Giant’s Causeway, Glendalough, and Newgrange, all spectacular, all worthy of a visit. But here’s the reality: they’re proper day trips. 12-14 hours including travel time.
My advice? Pick one, maximum two if you’re here for a week. The Cliffs of Moher are stunning but it’s a long drive. Glendalough is closer and equally magical—ancient monastic ruins in a glacial valley. Giant’s Causeway is incredible but it’s in Northern Ireland (yes, different currency, plan accordingly).
Don’t try to “do” Ireland in three days from Dublin. You’ll spend all your time on coaches and none of it actually experiencing places.
Evening Entertainment
Dublin comes alive at night, but not always where you’d expect.
For traditional music: The Cobblestone, O’Donoghue’s, or The Celtic nights show (touristy but genuinely good craic).
For comedy: Ireland has produced some of the world’s best comedians. Comedy clubs like The Laughter Lounge or Anseo offer nightly shows that’ll have you crying with laughter.
For something different: The Irish Dance shows atBelvedere or Taylors Dance Shows aren’t just for tourists. They’re genuinely spectacular displays of an art form we’re ridiculously proud of.
Money Matters
Ireland isn’t cheap. A pint costs €5-7, a decent meal €15-25, attractions €10-30 each. It adds up quickly.
Save money by:
- Buying combination tickets (many attractions offer them)
- Eating lunch as your main meal (lunch menus are often half the price of dinner for the same food)
- Using the Leap Card for public transport instead of individual tickets
- Drinking in pubs outside the city center
- Taking advantage of free attractions (National Gallery, Natural History Museum, Phoenix Park)
The Most Important Advice
Talk to people. We’re genuinely friendly (sometimes to a fault). Strike up a conversation at the pub (Gorgan’s being a prime example), ask your taxi driver about their favorite spots, chat with shopkeepers. Some of my visitors’ best memories aren’t from the attractions, they’re from the random conversations that turned into impromptu pub sessions or dinner invitations.
And here’s the thing about Dublin: it’s not perfect. The traffic is terrible, the weather is unpredictable, and you’ll probably overpay for at least one pint. But there’s something about this citythe way golden light hits the Georgian doors on a summer evening or beams down Grafton St., the sound of traditional music spilling out of pubs, the way strangers become friends over a shared table and a few jars.
Before You Go
Book key attractions in advance especially Guinness Storehouse, the Book of Kells, and day trips to the Cliffs of Moher. Walking into these places without tickets often means hours of waiting or being turned away entirely.
Download the Leap Card app for public transport. Learn to pronounce a few words (it’s pronounced “Dub-lin” not “Doo-blin” for starters). And remember: we drive on the left, our humor is self-deprecating, and if someone calls you “love” or “pet,” they’re being friendly, not forward.
My Perfect First-Timer’s Itinerary
Day 1: Hop-on, hop-off bus to orient yourself. Stop at Trinity College (Book of Kells), walk Grafton Street, relax in St. Stephen’s Green. Evening: Temple Bar for photos, then pub elsewhere for dinner and music.
Day 2: Guinness Storehouse in the morning. Walk through the Liberties (Dublin’s oldest neighborhood). Afternoon at EPIC Museum (Irish emigration museum—better than it sounds, trust me). Evening: Irish dance show or comedy club.
Day 3: Day trip to either Glendalough/Wicklow Mountains or Cliffs of Moher. You’ll be exhausted but it’s worth it.
Day 4: Phoenix Park and Dublin Zoo in the morning (if you have kids) or Kilmainham Gaol (fascinating history). Afternoon: Whiskey distillery tour. Evening: Wander through your favorite neighborhood from Day 1.
There you have it, 20 + years of tour guiding condensed into one handy guide! Dublin isn’t just a city you visit; it’s a city that stays with you. Years from now, you’ll remember the taste of that first Guinness, the sound of fiddles in a packed pub, and the feeling of standing on the edge of a cliff with the Atlantic wind in your face.
Just remember to book your tours in advance, pack a raincoat, and be ready for the craic. We’ll take care of the rest.
Sláinte!
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